Locking Gas Cap for Camaro

Locking Gas Cap – GM Part Number: 23159210

Comes with an array of different size tumblers that fit inside the lock specifically to fit your key. Took me about half hour to install. Body coloured gas cover slides right off so you can get behind it to remove the old gas cap from the body of the car.

Here’s a few pics.

photo 1 photo 2 photo

No Drill License Plate Bracket Installation from EliminatorBracket.com

Not having a front license is by far the best look you can have on your Camaro, but after a while I started to look for a front license plate solution that would make it easy to attach and remove depending on the mood I’m in.

Having read lots of reviews about the JacFab bracket, the JacFab seemed like the best option, it had the most reviews and at first the other just didn’t look as nice in my opinion.

Due to the Ground Effects kit on my Camaro, the JacFab bracket would need to be custom made and this seemed like too big a risk with the shipping costs to and from the USA should it go wrong. Naturally, I went with my second best option, the “Eliminator Bracket”.

At first I wasn’t too impressed by the website or the lack of detail in the installation guide, but don’t let this put you off, the build quality of the bracket is very good indeed.

More information at www.eliminatorbracket.com. Here’s some photo’s from my installation of the EliminatorBracket:

My bracket came already fixed together on the GM OEM front license plate housing (the same one you would normally drill into your bumper). photo 1

The orange nylon wire, is simply a tool that you can use to position the nuts into the rear of the grille without accidentally dropping them behind them grille.

photo 2The small metal bar is permanently fixed to the grille, this allows you to easily attach and detach the front license plate in seconds.

photo 3

Once the nut is in the correct position, pull hard on the nylon wire to remove it from the nut thread.

photo 4

Use your fingers to hold the nut in position from behind the nut and align it with the screw holes on the eliminator bracket as required.

photo 5

Put the screws into the bracket ready for fitment.

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Fix the bracket to the nuts using the screws provided. Don’t over tighten as this will trash the thread on the nuts.

photo 7

This is what the grille will permanently look like when the OEM housing in not attached. It’s hardly noticeable when the OEM housing is removed from the car :-)

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With the other half of the EliminatorBracket already connected to the back of the OEM housing, the bracket simply clicks into place. Adjust the screws shown in the photo above to achieve the tightness that you desire when the bracket is clicked into place. The bracket already comes with rubber hoses on the rear of the OEM housing to stop the bracket from scratching the paintwork.

photo 12

Due to the new washers and screws on the front of the OEM housing, I was unable to get a level surface for the license plate to sit on. This was a bit of a let down in my opinion as using counter-sunk screw heads would have resolved the issue. However, by using single sided sticky pads, I was able to raise the surface of the bracket slightly so that the plate sits flat on top of the screws and pads.

In the above photo I also used a Tennessee license plate to mark the drill holes onto my Texas show plate.

photo 13

Once the holes were drilled into the correct correct position on the show plate, the license plates screws hold the plate securely to the OEM housing.

The screws I used are special license plate screws that come with a security key, this would normally stop thieves from taking the plate but since the whole bracket is detachable it only acts as a deterrent in this scenario.

Elite Engineering Catch Can Installation (for LS3 engine)

I finally got round to installing my Elite Engineering Catch Can at the weekend. Tools required were, wrench socket set, Allen key set, wire cutters, sharp scissors, hack saw, Teflon PTFE tape, vice grips, spanner set, cigarette lighter.

photo 3 (1)

After removing the stock tube from the PCV system to the Intake Manifold it was easy to identify where the catch can tubes fit onto the engine. The catch can bracket gets secured by taking out the screw into the stock pulley system and then screwing it back in with the new bracket in between.

The trickiest part was getting the top and side can elbows to point in the correct direction for the nylon hoses with AN connectors to attach correctly. Using vice grips and Teflon tape on the elbows helped to get a tight fitting in the correct direction. I had to screw the top elbow so tight, I thought it was going to wreck the can.

After fitting the catch can I was getting a vacuum leak which started to cause a hissing noise, I eventually overcame the hissing issue by cutting the hoses shorter. The nylons hoses were difficult to cut but I used a saw, wire cutters, and a sharp pair of scissors to get a flat edge on the hoses. the cigarette light was used to burn the nylon edges to stop it from fraying. Covered the edges with a bit of black electrical tape for the clamps to sit on top of.

photo 2 (1)

After 50 miles over the weekend I’ve already collected a small amount of oil vapor in the catch can so it’s working really well and protecting the car from oil gunk.

photo 1 (2)


Visit to Rolling Road Services – 5th March 2015

Big thanks to Chris at Rolling Road Services in Lye (near Stourbridge) for letting me roll the Camaro last night. On this occasion we managed to get 374.5 bhp out of her, but without a proper rear toe hook on the car, Chris could feel the tyres starting to slip out of the rollers. Better to be safe than sorry, so I didn’t roll her a second time.

And here is the print out:


GM Licensed 1LE Emblems from EmblemPros.com

So my 1LE emblem for the hood  arrived this week. Used some masking tape and autoglym rapid detailer to clean the surface.


Used a pound coin to space the letters and a sharpie pen to trace the position onto the masking tape.


Stuck down, removed the masking tape and it looks really good. It gives the black wrapped hood a much nicer look.


It was a bit on the pricey side but the quality of the product and end result is 10 out of 10 .


Decoding the VIN Number on a 2013 Camaro 1LE

The VIN number of each Camaro 1LE can be used to identify information about the vehicle.
A VIN number such as 2G1FT1EW9D9153638 can be decoded as follows:

2:     Built in Canada.
G:     General Motors (GM).
1:     Passenger Car.
F:     Camaro F-Body Type.
T:     S = 1LE 1SS Manual or T = 1LE 2SS Manual.
1:     37 Coupe 2 Door Notchback Type.
E:     Restraint System Installed.
W:     Engine Model/Type – LS3 (Manual) / J= L99 (Automatic).
9:     Check Digit (Can be 1 to 9).
D:     Model Year C=2012 D=2013 E=2014 F=2015.
9:     Plant Location – Oshawa, Ontario, Canada.
1:     Unique Number
5:     Unique Number
3:     Unique Number
6:     Vehicle Sequence Number
3:     Unique Number
8:     Unique Number

The Camaro SS 1LE is only available in a manual 6 speed transmission so they will never have the letter ‘J’ as indicated above.

UK Fuel Equivalents for 5th Generation Camaro SS V8’s (Petrol not Gasoline)

Hi folks,

I wanted to create a thread where we can share our views on fuel equivalents in the UK. It’s been a bit confusing for me with different fuel types at different petrol stations.

Please note that the information I gathered is specifically for V8’s (LS3 and L99); so someone with a V6 might want to add additional comments about their experiences for fuel on V6’s.

Before getting my car, I was doing some research on the difference between gasoline in the US and petrol in the UK. Most people were saying it’s exactly the same, it’s just a different word, tomato, tom-ay-toe. Personally I didn’t believe that fuel would be exactly the same, I did some digging, and it’s not.

All information I’ve seen so far points towards the V8’s being designed to run on US 93 (Premium) octane gasoline. The GM manual states that that 93 octane gasoline should be used as lower grade fuels can cause engine knocking. I hired a 2014 V8 SS whilst I was in Florida last year and they told me at the counter to only use “Super Premium Unleaded” where available. In most states the maximum you can get is 93, so this is what I went with.

This got me thinking so I took some photos of the fuel pumps so I could gather as much info as possible. (See photos).
You can just make out at the bottom, it says “(R+M)/2 Method”.

So the million dollar question is “93”, “93 what?” – How is it rated or measured differently?

According to WikiPedia the “(R+M)/2 Method” means that the octane rating is measured in “AKI” also known as “(R+M)/2″. Therefore the AKI rating would translate to a different RON rating for the purpose of converting to a UK fuel.

According to Wiki page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_…28R.2BM.29.2F2
the US (Regular) 87-AKI equates to UK 92-RON, US (Mid-grade) 89-AKI equates to less than UK 95-RON, and the US (Super Premium) 93-AKI equates to UK-97 RON. There’s also a table which shows an equivalent RON value of 97 RON for fuel outside of the USA and Canada.

This could mean that UK Shell V-Power 99-RON and UK Tesco Momentum 99-RON is way too high for our cars, but I’m no expert, I’m just repeating what I’ve read. It’s clearly not measured like for like as most people think.

I intend to keep this car for a long time so I wanted to make sure I was choosing the correct fuel for my LS3 engine. The petrol stations near me only do (Regular) 95 RON or (Super) 99 RON.

I did recently come across a Sainsburys Petrol station selling 97-ROM Super Unleaded so that’s what I’m going to stick to from now on. There’s a BP not too far from me that does 97-RON but BP are generally more expensive. Not all BP’s are the same though, I guess some are franchised and some are not.

For you V8 guys using 95 RON, it’s still going to equate to 90-91 AKI; which is still much better than the US mid-grade gasoline. Hope this information helps and please correct me if I’ve missed anything.